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Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

by Andrea on February 1, 2011

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Travellers to New Zealand’s South Island often visit at least one of either Fox Glacier or Franz Josef for guided walks, climbs or a combination of flights and hiking. Competition is fierce between the two guiding companies – so much that they won’t even speak each other’s names. If you don’t have time or money to visit both glaciers, you may be wondering which hike is right for you.

franz josef Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

The face of Franz Josef glacier

fox glacier face Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

The face of Fox Glacier currently features a dramatic ice cave.

We did the Franz Josef Glacier Guides ‘Half Day Glacier Experience,’ followed by ‘The Nimble Fox’ all-day glacier walk with Fox Glacier Guiding three days later. Though we’re here in the summer, winter is the best time to visit the glaciers because it isn’t as rainy (glacier country is surrounded by rainforests).We arrived in Franz Josef to heavy rain and worried it would wreck our planned excursion. Apparently the guided glacier trips proceed in pretty much any weather, but we were thrilled to awaken the next morning to a beautiful sunny day for our half-day hike. For Fox Glacier we weren’t so lucky and steady rain fell on us pretty much the entire day.

franz hike Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

Our group climbs the steps on Franz Josef glacier.

New Zealand’s glaciers flow almost to sea level and Franz Josef and Fox Glacier are accessible from the edge of the townships named for them. While visitors can walk almost right up to the faces of these giant frozen rivers on their own, a guided tour is a must for walking out onto the ice. Our Franz Josef guide told us that some very silly people have tried walking onto the glacier in jandals (thongs or flip-flops, if you like). And yes, people have died from falling on or off the glaciers, even on guided tours. This is completely avoidable if you stay with your guide on the path and follow his instructions exactly. We felt very safe during both our hikes.

narrow fox Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

Luckily, everyone in our group fit through this tight squeeze on Fox Glacier.

The types of trips offered by each company are very similar. We showed up to the offices at the prescribed time and were suited up with our gear: a rain jacket, overtrousers, socks, boots, crampons, gloves and hats. At Fox Glacier we were also offered fleece jumpers, backpacks and alpenstocks (walking sticks with a spike at one tip). The equipment is similar. I preferred the boots at Fox Glacier because they fit me better but the overtrousers at Franz Josef were much higher quality. Provided backpacks are handy so your own doesn’t get soaked in the rain. But after the full-boot crampons provided by Franz Josef, I couldn’t believe the little spikes we latched on to the middle of the soles of our boots at Fox. They were adequate but I much preferred the Franz Josef crampons. The disadvantage there is that we had to carry our crampons in huge waist packs that we continued to wear throughout the tour.

franz tunnel Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

Climbing up through a tunnel on Franz Josef glacier.

We were then transferred to the glacial valley for a 30-60 minute (depending on the glacier) hike to the face. The difficulty of the hikes is probably about the same. At Franz Josef we walked through a forest, a valley and then climbed a tall hill to reach the ice. The pre-ice hike at Fox Glacier is pretty much just a walk through the valley with a climb up a hill at the end to reach the ice. The face of the Fox Glacier is much more beautiful than at Franz Josef at the moment, however, with the rushing river spilling out from a huge blue ice cave.

fox hike Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

Free exploring on our Fox Glacier hike

The differences lie primarily in the glaciers themselves and how they are guided. Franz Josef extends 12 kilometres from the three glaciers that feed into it and the terminal face is 19 kilometres from the sea. Fox Glacier is fed by four glaciers and falls 2,600 metres from the base of the Southern Alps to the West Coast. It is longer than Franz Josef at 13 kilometres and the gradient is less steep to climb. If you’re doing a heli-hike, Fox Glacier offers you views of Mounts Cook and Tasman. The guided hike at Franz Josef is on a pre-cut, pre-determined path while the paths at Fox Glacier are set by the guide on the day. Depending on the conditions, the group and the guide, the tour may vary. The glacier experiences are quite different from one another for this reason.

john andrea in moulin Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

We all took turns posing in a moulin on Fox Glacier.

Fox Glacier is slightly less expensive than Franz Josef, however, visitors on half- and full-day walks on Franz Josef are offered complimentary access to the Glacier Hot Pools, which are fed with water from the glacier. The township of Franz Josef also has more accommodation and facilities than that of Fox Glacier, though the latter is very nice and has plenty of good places to eat. Aside from the ice climbing experiences, Franz Josef walks and heli-hikes claim to be up to an hour longer than those on Fox Glacier. For us, the amount of time on Fox Glacier was plenty on our one-day trip as it gets quite cold on the glacier and a lot of energy is expended moving around.

franz group Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

A group of visitors and guides working on Franz Josef

So which hike is better? The answer depends on what each individual is looking for. If a person has never done any hiking over loose terrain (or much hiking at all), I would recommend Franz Josef. The Fox Glacier experience is completely safe and suitable for beginners, but even with all my hiking experience, I still felt unsure of foot in several parts. They baby you a lot more at Franz Josef. Our Fox tour moved very fast and felt like more of an adventure over rough terrain. While our guide constantly checked the track and made sure we were all safe and comfortable, he wasn’t always giving us specific instructions or slowing down the pace.


 Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?


John and I thought both of our guides were excellent and we saw some really beautiful formations on both tours. But Fox Glacier Guiding hosts fewer people and we preferred the more free-style approach to the tour that this allows. It was a challenge and I really enjoyed that. The fitness levels required for both hikes are probably about the same and whichever hike you choose, you’ll have a great time.

fox end of road Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

This was as far as our guide could take us on Fox Glacier. It’s huge and to safely go any higher a flight is required.

Tips:

Dress warm. You may be dissuaded from wearing too many layers or hats and gloves in the summer, but if you’re a person who gets cold, I recommend wearing a scarf and hat. I caught a nasty chill on my neck at Franz Josef and had sore neck muscles for days even though it was sunny. Dress in layers so you can peel these off if you get too hot.

Use their gear, especially if you’re travelling the next day and the weather is wet. If you wear your own clothes and carry your own backpack, you’ll have to worry about drying these out.

Shorts are fine. I can’t speak for the winter weather but it’s fine to wear shorts on the glacier in summer. You can put your overtrousers on top of the shorts once you get onto the ice if you‘re cold (recommended if it is raining). Do not wear jeans as you won’t be allowed onto the ice with them.

Don’t forget sunscreen. The sun is very hot in New Zealand and the glare is amplified by the reflections off the ice. Even on an overcast day, the intensity of the sun will burn you very quickly.

Stay on track and listen to your guide. He will teach you how to put on your crampons and give you instructions for walking on the ice, so pay attention and don’t talk during these demonstrations. A couple of visitors on our Fox tour kept going closer to crevasses for a better look and the guide had to caution them back. The glaciers can still be very dangerous even though you’re allowed to walk on them. Don’t be stupid and put your life at risk just to get what you think will be a better photo.

Glaciers exist all over the world. Have you visited any?

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 Franz Josef or Fox Glacier: Which Glacier Hike Is Better?

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{ 62 comments… read them below or add one }

Traveling Canucks February 1, 2011 at 1:35 am

Very cool! We’re still kicking ourselves that we didn’t hike the actual glacier. We were short on funds at the time and made the fiscally responsible decision to skip the hike and just hike around the parks. Looks like it was a fun day

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 11:08 pm

They were quite expensive. We chose these over other activities like swimming with dolphins. Who knows what is the better experience…hate that travel often means tough financial choices…oh well… The hikes around Franz Josef sounded really good, actually. We got rained out the next couple of days for those.

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Jade February 1, 2011 at 2:32 am

Wow- this looks awesome! We are always up for hiking especially if in a cool location… and tight squeezes mean extra danger! ha :) And Sunscreen is such a great tip- I always forget when it’s cold and i’m bundled up that my face is going to burn!

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 11:06 pm

We weren’t sure about that tight squeeze, haha. The guide spent 15 minutes “filling in” the floor before we went through. The ice was quite loose…so not sure what was underneath :/ Only annoying part was the people in front of us stopped to take a photo and then were looking through their shots as well while the rest of us were literally stuck waiting for several minutes. Try to go first, haha.

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Cathy Sweeney February 1, 2011 at 2:34 am

Wow – what a hike and awesome experience. I would love to do this, but a little concerned about that tunnel. Hopefully, it’s not too long (a little claustrophobic here). Great photos, too.

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 11:03 pm

I bumped my head in the tunnel…ouch! John is a bit claustrophobic as well, you’re not in it very long. The one on Fox was a tighter squeeze…we had to really duck down there and shimmy through. Good fun, though.

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Wandering Educators February 1, 2011 at 2:47 am

this looks amazing – and SO beautiful!

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 11:02 pm

The colours in the ice were really something…we’re really glad we did the hikes.

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Amanda Williams February 1, 2011 at 2:50 am

Awesome post! I like that you tried out both treks and compared the two. I’ve always been curious as to how they differed. I’m hoping to do at least one of these the next time I’m in New Zealand.

The only glacier I’ve seen up close is the Mendenhall Glacier outside of Juneau, Alaska. I didn’t get the chance to hike out onto, it, though, but it was still a fun experience to hike out to a nearby waterfall and take some photos.

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 11:01 pm

We wondered too and couldn’t find much specific info…only that Fox offers a “different” glacier experience. That’s the great thing about having a travel blog, you can answer questions people haven’t yet online.

I’ve always wanted to see Alaska. I think it would be good to check out any glaciers, even if just the face. We plan to visit Perito Moreno in Argentina next…apparently that one crashes into the water all the time. We won’t walk on it but can’t wait to hear that sound!

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zablon mukuba February 1, 2011 at 3:23 am

am impressed you did both treks, great photos

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 10:58 pm

Thanks, mate! We couldn’t decide so had to just do them both!

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Robin February 1, 2011 at 9:24 am

This looks astonishing – I have never been anywhere like it – maybe some day. Great pictures.

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 10:58 pm

We hadn’t either…just the size of them is confronting…and these pics only show a little part of the glaciers. Thanks, Robin.

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Laurel February 1, 2011 at 3:56 pm

Fantastic photos! I love that both of these glacier hikes are so accessible to people. Also loved the comparison between the two competitors.

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 10:56 pm

Thanks, Laurel. It’s really sweet that the glaciers come right up to the townships…so glad we did them both.

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Michael Hodson February 1, 2011 at 4:20 pm

wow – really great shots. I did Fox Glacier and liked it a lot.

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 10:56 pm

Thanks, Michael. We liked them both but Fox just that little bit better, even with the gray skies and rain.

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Andi Perullo February 1, 2011 at 8:43 pm

God, that looks so freaking awesome!!! What cool pics!

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 10:55 pm

They were pretty cool hikes indeed (no pun intended!) =)

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Jimshu February 1, 2011 at 9:22 pm

Loved this, and more so as I love reading of other people’s impressions of our country. And Andrea, I really would like a copy of that photo of John and you posing in that ice cave. Great shot.

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Andrea and John February 1, 2011 at 10:54 pm

Thanks, Jim…I agree, I love reading posts that travellers write about Australia and the US. Will send you a photo next time our laptop is online.

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Mark February 1, 2011 at 11:13 pm

Awesome as usual!

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Andrea and John February 2, 2011 at 10:49 am

Aw, thanks Mark – so kind!

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John in France February 2, 2011 at 4:57 am

Excellent article and photos! Do you know your next challenge? Doubtful Sounds or Milford Sounds!!!???

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Andrea and John February 2, 2011 at 10:48 am

We’re off to Queenstown next for white water rafting and some local exploration and then Te Anau after that…Milford Sound for sure but haven’t chosen a particular tour yet…

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Jack and Jill Travel The World February 2, 2011 at 4:59 am

Wow, that’s so amazing… we’ve visited glaciers in Alaska but we didn’t go on them or anything like that.

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Andrea and John February 2, 2011 at 10:49 am

It kind of feels like walking around on a freezer…lots of fun. We’re not skiers or snowboarders so it was an unusual experience for us!

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leslie (downtown traveler) February 2, 2011 at 2:37 pm

Amazing photos! Your comment about the flip flops reminds me of our glacier walk in Alaska. We were all geared up with crampons and helmets, and then we came across a guy in shorts and running shoes with a bicycle– on the top of the glacier!

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Andrea and John February 2, 2011 at 8:02 pm

That’s wild! I felt unsteady enough with my crampons! Thanks for sharing the story =)

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RamblingTart February 2, 2011 at 6:55 pm

Thank you SO much for visiting my blog while I was gone in Australia. I survived the flooding and am now home safe and sound, slowly but surely getting caught up on everything. :-) I’m delighted to find your blog! Your photos are absolutely stunning. :-)

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Andrea and John February 2, 2011 at 8:01 pm

Thanks so much! Glad to hear you made it out of the floods ok…we just can’t believe the stories we’re hearing from home…so much has happened since we left Oz.

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Matt Hope February 2, 2011 at 10:06 pm

I love the glacier posts you do! Something I’ve never seen in person before, so it’s cool to see some up close pictures.

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Andrea and John February 3, 2011 at 11:03 pm

Thanks, Matt…we had so many photos from the two days that it was hard to choose. I’ll have to put them into another post at some stage when we slow down.

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Spencer February 3, 2011 at 4:37 am

Tough choice. They both look amazing. I reckon just toss a coin and let fate decide!

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Andrea and John February 3, 2011 at 10:58 pm

Haha, not a bad idea =)

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Michael Figueiredo February 4, 2011 at 1:51 am

This brings back memories! I tried glacier ice climbing in Switzerland after I graduated college….it was so fun, but so tiring! It looks like you guys had an awesome time. (Great tips too!)

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Andrea and John February 5, 2011 at 2:41 am

Climbing sounds way tougher than what we did…Switzerland would have been beautiful for that!

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Anonymous February 5, 2011 at 1:40 am

Fantastic photos! I love the Franz Josef Glacier, though I spent three months living in Franz so I’m arguably a bit biased! Both are definite must sees on a trip to New Zealand! It’s not budget friendly, but a helicopter flight gives you a completely different view of the Southern Alps and glaciers – out of this world experience.

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Andrea and John February 5, 2011 at 2:39 am

Three months in Franz?! Wow! It rains so much there…we would have loved to fly over but have to save money for the rest of the year. The neves of these are huge and worth an aerial view for sure!

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Ordinary Traveler February 5, 2011 at 5:10 am

I love your matching jackets! :) That’s really good to know that they offer you all that gear for the hike. How is it for taking a camera? Does everything inside your backpack tend to get wet?

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Andrea and John February 6, 2011 at 6:09 am

It was okay but if it rains everything does get soaked. We had to dry out our camera in front of the heater afterwards. I had it out constantly and it got pretty wet…the lens was completely fogged. All good now, though!

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Rease Kirchner February 21, 2011 at 1:16 am

I’ve only seen a small glacier in Alaska from a distance, no hiking or guides there. These look amazing and beautiful!

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Andrea and John February 21, 2011 at 1:51 am

They really are…and it’s so awesome to be able to go out onto them and explore!

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Anonymous March 21, 2011 at 3:48 am

Such awesome photos! Absolutely dying to do this now! The only glaciers I’ve seen were up in Juneau, Alaska. I did a day trip to through Tracy Arm Fjord and Sawyer Glaciers (you couldn’t climb), but absolutely incredible nonetheless. I’m not the most coordinated so it will be interesting to see how badly I do (Brett will not be allowed to video me that’s for sure!)

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Andrea and John March 21, 2011 at 8:26 pm

Thanks =) I’m not the most coordinated either, so don’t worry about that. Franz is probably that little bit better if you’re feeling unsure on your feet because they have better crampons. It’s definitely an experience to try at least once in your life, I reckon!

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Kamrul Arifin January 10, 2013 at 8:20 am

very good and informative review :) thumbs up for both of you
i’m looking forward to the trip on september 2013. and we have to choose only one between fox and hanz josef. your article definitely helps up made our mind!

regards
Kamrul

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inspiringtravellers January 10, 2013 at 10:31 am

I’m so happy it helped you, Kamrul! Both glaciers are excellent – enjoy! =)

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Steve March 2, 2013 at 6:31 am

Do you have to book half day tours of fox glacier or can you just turn up in march

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inspiringtravellers March 2, 2013 at 1:16 pm

Hi Steve – I’m not sure that you definitely need to book in advance; the summer season is probably the busiest. Perhaps not booking ahead would mean that you didn’t get the time slot you want. My rule is that if I don’t have a lot of time in a location to be flexible, then I always book ahead if the activity is something that I “must do.” Good luck and hope you enjoy it!

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Chris March 29, 2013 at 7:00 am

cheers for the great advice – I’m heading there in a few days and was debating which one to hit up…seems I can’t really go wrong with either :)

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inspiringtravellers March 30, 2013 at 12:10 pm

Both are pretty awesome, Chris – have fun! =)

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Nelli May 16, 2013 at 3:52 am

Thanks for the great blog Andrea!
We’re visiting NZ now and are desperately trying to fit everything in (but failing) and would love some advice! We’re travelling with our 18mth old (and a baby backpack carrier!) and have been on a few hikes on the north island – though nothing exceeding 3hrs – and we are hoping to get to one of these glaciers for a look (but not on the ice obviously)
Weather permitting, would you recommend Fox or Franz?

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inspiringtravellers May 16, 2013 at 6:56 am

Again, this is a tough choice. The town at Franz is much larger than at Fox and you can enjoy other activities like the nature center and the hot pools. Fox is a little more back country – not much going on in the little township there. But you have some great non-ice tramping activities around Fox: Lake Matheson (1 1/2 hours around the lake), Gillespies Beach hike (11 km) and other walks like Moraine, Chalet Lookout (for a view of the glacier), Mount Fox Track and Copland Track (supposed to be hot pools there too). So if it’s lots of hiking you want, Fox is your place. Just be prepared for sleepy evenings with not much going on. Enjoy! =)

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Matthew Gray July 8, 2013 at 8:06 am

Thanks Andrea and John for the post. Really useful information. I live in the UK and have been wanting to go to New Zealand for many years. I’m doing a bus tour next year November 2014 with Flying Kiwi. One of the stops is Fox Glacier so reading this blog has got me very excited! Thanks. Great pictures.

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inspiringtravellers July 8, 2013 at 8:48 am

Oh fantastic, Matthew – you’ll have a wonderful time…enjoy!

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Liz Beem July 27, 2013 at 10:30 pm

Like most everyone else we are on a tight budget and timeframe. Have you heard if it is truly worth the extra expense of the heli-hike tours? I know you can get further up the glacier…but just wondering if that changes the experience much. Thanks for any recommendations! Your info is already really helpful!

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inspiringtravellers July 28, 2013 at 9:54 am

I have actually never heard anything about the heli-hike tours. We didn’t think that sounded worth the extra money but not having done it, that’s difficult to comment on. I’d say if you’re really into glaciers and dying for an aerial view, or if it’s a special occasion, they would probably be amazing. Otherwise, I’d save my money for more activities. The hikes on the glaciers themselves from below are pretty awesome one their own.

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Audrey August 13, 2014 at 11:44 am

This is really great! Thanks for the information!
My family is visiting NZ in October and we’re planning to attempt the guided hike for Fox Glacier. May I ask how long does the hike usually take? Also, I’m worried that my stamina may not be up for this hike. Any recommendations on what I can do to prepare myself? Thank you in advance!

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inspiringtravellers August 13, 2014 at 1:03 pm

Hi Audrey, I went to their website and it appears that they are doing heli-hikes only now there…you may want to call and confirm this as I’m not seeing the trek we did on their website anymore. They can give you all the latest details on trips available. As for training, I don’t think you need much more than just general exercise and decent fitness. Again, I think calling over there or emailing is the best bet as the options may have changed. Enjoy!

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Carmen October 13, 2014 at 4:35 am

Thanks for the information!
I am planning to go in Dec and was wondering what the difference was.
So you guys didn’t do the helihike? which hike did you do with Franz Josef?

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inspiringtravellers October 13, 2014 at 12:07 pm

December is summer so it should be nice. No, we did a hike that appears to not be available anymore. It seems that both glaciers are now offering only heli-hike options…please contact the companies to see what is available.

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