One of my favourite sounds is waves crashing against the beach. It’s not really a cliche for me because despite many trips to the coast growing up and living in Australia, this is the primary love affair I have with the ocean. I don’t surf, dive or even enjoy swimming in it that much; just the sight and sound is enough. So when we heard about a surf town just south of Santiago I jumped at the chance to see the beach one more time before summer finished for good.
I'd never seen a horse-drawn carriage on a beach before!
We escaped the busy city and began our journey along the route from Santiago to Pucon. Our bus passed through the winemaking centre of Santa Cruz before turning down the coast to Pichilemu. A giant welcome sign with surfboards greeted us and it didn’t take long to realize that we were in a true beach resort town. We were approached by several touts offering accommodation as soon as we stepped off the bus. It was early evening on a Saturday and the town was buzzing. Children sped around on four-wheel dirt bikes on the racecourse opposite the beach while adults chose to joyride in the numerous horse-driven carriages servicing the town.
Families enjoy some late waves on a Saturday afternoon.
Pichilemu is probably best known for surfing, especially at Punta de Lobos, which actually lies six kilometres south. Every summer the Campeonato Nacional de Surf (National Surfing Championship) is held there, while the International Championship of Surf is held at La Puntilla Beach in October and December. Needless to say, this little spot is thought by many to have the best surfing in all of Chile. Expats have made it home just for this reason. Visitors can hire gear, take lessons or attend surf camps with several different companies here.
Pichilemu is a haven for surfers. But non-surfers will also enjoy its charms.
The old Ross Casino is now the Cultural Centre and home to gallery spaces and the public library.
But you don’t have to be a beach bum to enjoy the town or its dark sand beaches. Lovers of beach towns (like us) can easily enjoy a few days relaxing, walking on the beach and watching the amazing sunsets. At least a half dozen empanada shops sell the handmade creations. We were there just after high season and we still waited twenty minutes for our order because the stands are so busy. We haven’t been in Chile long enough to compare them to any others but a very high benchmark has been set. After ordering off the menu of about forty different combinations of fillings, the empanadas are handmade fresh (sometimes right in front of you). Add an inexpensive bottle of local Colchagua wine and the seaside picnic is ready.
This particular empanada shop was busy day and night every time we walked by.
And our taste test confirmed that they were indeed delicious.
Getting there: From Santiago, take the metro to Universidad de Santiago and go through the tunnel to the bus terminal. Visit the Pullman del Sur or Nilahue counter and ask for a ticket to Pichilemu (they depart about once an hour). Be sure to go through Melipilla – we missed that bus and our journey took five hours. From the south, connections are available from San Fernando, which is three hours away.
Ending the day with an incredible west coast sunset.
What are some of your favourite beach spots?
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{ 30 comments… read them below or add one }
What an early morning treat for me to read you story in freezing cold Turkey. I share your love of beach towns and at the end or the beginning of season they are even more enticing. I haven’t seen a horse drawn carriage on a beach either, seems like nice idea.Love that sunset picture.
Thanks, Inka! Turkey has so many lovely beach towns, no? I’d love to visit those…sorry you have to wait a few more months, though…
We were in Pichilemu a month before the 8.8 earthquake and took loads of photos of the place. When we saw all the damage that was done by the quake and the tsunami there (days later on TV) we were shocked. Must go back soon to check out how things are and when we do, that Empanada place looks like a must do.
Rob.
There was still quite a bit of work being done on some of the roads, which we thought was because of the earthquake but weren’t sure. We saw some photos of the damage from the tsunami. We’ve just returned online after a day off and are now watching TV about the evacuations…not sure where they are evacuating people, though? Hope Pichi doesn’t get any more damage.
Wow, that last shot just blew me away!!! I’m dying to go surfing in Chile. I’ve heard how awesome it is. Great post
Thanks, lovely! Since you know how to surf you must go there! I only tried it once and didn’t do so well but maybe need to give it another shot; I felt a little sad that I didn’t know how when I saw the waves there.
Absolutely STUNNING photos, Andrea.
I’m not a surfer or diver either, but park me in the sand where I can watch everything and I’m a happy camper. 
Thanks so much! Same – very happy to just chill on the beach =)
Love the sunset photo. I love beach towns. I grew up on the beach and I don’t surf but I just love the smells, sounds, and beach vibe. I wrote a post about the beach sort of today!
John took that photo – he loves to take pictures of sunsets wherever we go. Must be his Perth upbringing =) Totally agree with you – the smells, sounds and vibes are the best. Here in Chile they call that “bueno onda,” or ‘good vibes.’
Looks like a kool place, am jealous like a fox!
It was awesome – glad we were there when it was peaceful before all the evacuation fears though. Lele maiko!
I love beach towns as well, perhaps because I’ve never lived in one, they seem like a perfect place to be. When I lived in Thailand, we used to go to a small island with a nice beach to get away from all the hustle and bustle that is Bangkok. Love the sunset photo as well!
Thanks, Laurel. I’ve never lived in a small beach town either, though I have lived near the coast several times. Small ones are the best to visit – and islands as well!
This looks like a beautiful place to visit. I love the photo of the giant palm trees with the surfers! The empanadas look delicious too
Thanks, Michael! It was very peaceful and lovely =)
Reminds me of growing up in San Diego. Nice photos!
Thanks! =) I’ve never been to San Diego but have heard good things…
I guess I’d have to say our favourite beach spot is right here at home on the Kapiti Coast. We’re lucky enough not to have to commute, and in the middle of those short winter days are able to wander along Raumati Beach with our dog, watching the sun setting behind the Marlborough Sounds…and people are still at work.
Love that sunset pic John and Andrea.
How lucky you are to have such a gorgeous beach right in your own backyard – you definitely live in a great spot, Jim!
By the way, we saw lots of wild blackberries here in Chile today and thought of you guys =)
I’ve heard great things about the surf in Pichilemu. I’m excited to experience it for myself soon!
How cool that you’re going there! When are you guys in Chile? =)
Empanadas + beach. Woohoo! Seriously, those empanadas look delish!
They were SO good – we are kicking ourselves for not eating more of them because we haven’t found too many shops that have such a variety. And none that look as good as those tasted. Tomorrow we’re going to try some from the shops near where we’re staying in Pucon.
Beautiful sunset, perfect time to be lying on the boards out in the water and watch the sun go down
It looks like a nice place to chill even if you don’t want to surf.
It was so chill! I can’t resist a gorgeous sunset locale =)
This made me crave the ocean — just got back from Miami Beach and what a beautiful beach that was! Not at all for the surfers but perfect to swim and play in! I’m from New England– CT & RI area and RI has the best waves in the area. Although NJ is a nice spot for surfers too in the summer. The start of your post reminded me of myself–never have gotten the hang of surfing but somehow just either swimming, laying down and watching the surfers & just relaxing is sometimes enough. I think just being at the beach makes me content.
Another favorite beach spot would be in Antigua– again not for the surfers but a quiet, calming beautiful beach.
Would love to visit Chile now though!! I’ve heard portugal has some perfect surf spots and beaches as well.
Thanks so much for commenting, Shaina! I used to live in Miami and have also lived in San Francisco and Australia. Seems I like great beaches too =)
I have surfed Chile, but not Pichilemu…should head there someday!
Seeing the waves there made me wish I was a surfer!